Searching for the Last Housebarn in Przechowko

In June, 2024, my friend David Richert and I were searching at Przechowko for remains of the houses in which villagers lived in former years when the village was occupied.  Based mostly on this photo from the early 1960s:

Here we have the cemetery circled in red, the site of the church circled in green, and a couple houses right behind (to the south) of these sites.  David and I figured that by walking between the bluffs upon which sit the cemetery and the church/school, we might find flat spots where it would make sense that houses would have stood.  So, here's the gap between the two bluffs, looking towards the north:

And here's a spot, right about where it should be (based on the above village photo) that looks flat - like it could be a spot where a house could stand:

Near this spot we even found some bricks or something.  Could these be remains of a house or just some bricks or rubbish that were dumped here?:

Otherwise, this former village area is really overgrown with trees and weeds and such:

In the spring of 2025, I was introduced to a man who is now a good friend of mine named Robert Adrych.  Robert is an artist living in the vicinity of Swiecie, Poland, and he specializes in stone carving; he can create the most wonderful items right out of stone.  He's shown me plenty of things he's carved: animals, flowers, people, etc.  It's an absolutely amazing talent, really.  I don't know how a person would even begin to carve items out of a stone but Robert can just come at the rock with his grinder and - like Michelangelo said - there's a item trapped in the stone and the artist liberates it.  Robert can do that with his chisels and grinder and it's just fascinating.  Robert also grew up living in Przechowko - right there in a Hollander housebarn.

Mennonites moved away from Przechowko by the very early 1830s.  After that point, Lutheran Hollanders moved into the village and they simply moved into the housebarns previously occupied by the Mennonite Hollanders.  Eventually, local Poles also moved into the village and were co-inhabitants with some of the Lutherans.  By the 1940s I think there were 14 farms in the village and, little by little, as the century progressed, villagers moved away from Przechowko until only one farm was occupied - the farm and housebarn that sat almost immediately east of the cemetery.  This housebarn stood until the early 2000s and Robert grew up living in it.

This is a photo of the house from Peter Klassen's "Mennonites in Early Modern Poland and Prussia", page 88:  

Note the ornamental tree in front of the house, again seen clearly in this photo via Kathy Friesen from the early 2000s.  Friesen traveled to the village at that time with a tour led by Allen Peters:

The same tree is still standing in its spot.  In the photo below, you can see the flat, open spot behind the marked tree where the house stood:

In the summer of 2025, Robert was good enough to show me exactly where the house stood.  Here we can find portions of the house foundations as well as bricks that made up the walls of the stable.

When I see this now, it looks like David and I had the correct spot back near the top of this article.

The driveway leading to the house is still seen clearly through the trees.  This is basically the gap between the cemetery and the church/school bluffs:

The Memorial Stone that Robert carved for the Przechowko is magnificent piece of art as well as a touching tribute to the souls buried in the cemetery, both Robert's ancestors and mine.

Robert included a heart-shaped stone on the front to signify our love and respect for the village and the cemetery.  This stone, as well as the Memorial Stone itself, are native stones that Robert recovered from the area.:

On the front, Robert carved a map of the village, copied from a well-known early 20th century map.

Marked here in with red crosses is the cemetery, and the house where Robert lived in marked with a yellow arrow.

At the back of the Memorial Stone, Robert carved a likeness of the housebarn in which he lived.

Thank you, Robert Adrych, for showing me the place where your childhood home stood, and thank you for your wonderful efforts in creating the Przechowko Memorial Stone.  May it, and the cemetery itself, stand as a lasting tribute to the village and to those who lived there.

Inscribed upon the Przechowko Memorial Stone:

"To the Mennonites and Evangelicals from Przechowko (Wintersdorf), and the surrounding area who found their final resting place here. Peace be upon their ashes.

The work and design were carried out by Robert Adrych, a former resident of Przechowko."

Chelmno in the Old Days

Przechowko is located directly across the Vistula from Chelmno, Poland.  In centuries past, Chelmno was an extremely important town even though for various reasons it declined.  The town was the seat of a very early bishopric even though the official bishop's residence and church was actually located in nearby Chelmza.  As a result, Chelmno was home to several important churches and monasteries.  The standard for the Chelmno Rod has been bolted onto the backside of the Renaissance-era city building.  And even today you certainly get the feel that the town was an important center back in the old days.  The locals like to repeat that sentiment and like to point out that there are more churches here than in Torun.

The largest church in town, the Church of the Assumption, could certainly be seen from Przechowko and I imagine the Mennonite villagers gazing at the tower as they did fieldwork.

View to the south from western-most Przechowko lot.  Note church towers in the distance.

Recently, I came across fantastic old photos that give an idea to what Chelmno looked like centuries ago.  These photos are likely from the inter-war period, before the deprivations and destructions of WWII and the communist era.  Photos Here.

This photo in particular fascinates me.

And it's interesting that we can compare it very much with a modern photo from Wikipedia.  Obviously, both photos are focused on the buildings of Chelmno, but I'm looking at the landscape in the distance to the north.

The most interesting thing to me is that we can see how the surrounding landscape has evolved over the last century.  We cannot see Przechowko from this angle, but we still get a real good idea about how Przechowko has changed.  Notice the lack of trees in the old photo.  We can see the Vistula not too distantly beyond the city walls (north).  And the view here is towards the northeast whereas Przechowko would actually be directly north from this view (this view is obviously taken from the tower of the Church of the Assumption).  (Another interesting point is that the Chelmno Rod is bolted onto the backside of the Ratusz, obviously in the new photo.  If you look carefully, you can also see it on the old photo too.)

Notice the lack of trees on the north side of the Vistula.  We read here and there about the fact that no trees - or very few trees - were present at Przechowko in centuries past.  This photo would seem to be witness to that fact.  In the modern-day photo, obviously, the whole area is absolutely filled with trees so it's hard to get a good handle on the topography of the land.  But this early-century photo really gives a feel for what our ancestors' perspective would have been.

Zwiastun Ewangelicki

The Mennonite community at Przechowko established daughter colonies in a manner not seen with other Mennonites communities in Poland.  Settlements in Jeziorki and the Netzebruch were established already in the mid-18th century.  Others moved towards Masovia and then Volhynia in the late-18th century.  In 1820, a large group left Przechowko and established Franzthal in the Molotschna Colony, and then in 1821 came those remaining, establishing Alexanderwohl (of course, a small number stayed in the Przechowko area).

Replacing the Mennonites were Lutheran (Evangelical) Hollenders who moved into the Mennonite housebarns in the village.  Many of these Lutherans had already lived in the area for a long time; indeed, there was likely more fluidity between these Lutheran groups and the Przechowko Mennonites than we modern Mennos would like to believe.  These Lutherans inhabited the village, then, until modern times – right up until WWII.

As a consequence, obviously, the cemetery at Przechowko is not exclusively a Mennonite cemetery with the largest number of “new” markers being Lutheran.  In fact, there would be a very large contingent of “Przechowko descendants” who would be Lutherans instead of Mennonites.

The oldest periodical in the country of Poland is the "Zwiastun Ewangelicki" (The Evangelical Herald) which has been published since January 15, 1863.  Among Polish Protestant periodicals, it has the widest reach and largest circulation.  Every two weeks, this publication brings readers articles that build faith, hope, and love, and inform about events in Poland and abroad and they’ve done this for more than 150 years.

This month, the Zwiastun Ewangelicki has published a story focused on the restoration of the Przechowko cemetery where so many of the Lutheran descendants would be buried. 

https://zwiastun.pl/2026/07/pamiec-przechowka/

Old Flemish Mennonite Path in Poland

Mennonites can find various travel routes to follow to help them visit sites of interest in Poland.  In my opinion, the best one available is this one: https://izi.travel/en/d2d7-mennonites-poland-common-heritage/en.

Alternatively, a person could take the tour arranged by the Mennonite Polish Studies Association (https://mla.bethelks.edu/information/mpsa.php).  This is a wonderful tour and would absolutely be worth the money.

I've been to Poland a good number of times now and I've done extensive research on the Old Flemish Mennonite congregation centered at Przechowko.  The above tours will take you to Mennonite sites across Poland but they will not focus on this Przechowko group.  Below, and with succeeding blog entries, I will create a list of sites in Poland that would focus just on this Przechowko group.

Gdansk - entry site for Mennonites into Poland.  Early baptismal candidates would have needed to travel to Groningen to be baptised and Danzig would have been the port used.

Hulshoff travel path (Petershagen, Schotland, Montau/Gruppe, etc)

Przechowko area: Vistula left bank: Przechowko, Konopat, Beckersitz, Vorwerk, etc.  House foundations, cemetery.  Swiecie City.

Przechowko area: Vistula right bank (Schonsee area): Schonsee cemetery, Dorposch, Ostrower Kaempe, etc.  Chelmno City.

Jeziorki

Netzebruch: Brenkenhofswalde, Franzthal

Elbing and Marienburg (Malbork): when the Alexanderwohl group traveled to North America in 1874, they traveled through these two cities by rail (Kaliningrad-Elbing-Malbork-Starogard).

Deutsch Wymysle/Sady and the museum at Wiacemin

Torun museum, specifically, the Niedwitz house which is so very similar to the Przechowko house.

Warsaw.  In 1820, when the group left Przechowko, they encountered the Tsar near Warsaw, probably at Powatzki.  Prot Potacki also encountered Mennos who would become the Michalin settlers at the marked in Warsaw.

Krakow.  In 1874, the group led by Tobias Unruh passed through the Krakow train station on their way to North America

Bonus: Karolswalde

Low German Mennonite Heritage Path: Vistula Delta and Valley/Masovia

 Rod Ratzlaff's Low German Mennonite Heritage Path: Vistula Delta and Valley/Masovia 

Low German Mennonites began settling in areas along the Vistula River valley, south of where the Nogat splits from the Vistula River, sometime soon after the mid-16th century.  Some of the congregations were established right about the year 1600 but the first settlement may have been right about the area directly across the Vistula from Grudziądz (Graudentz).  By the early 17th century, congregations were established at Montau, Schoensee, Przechowko, and Obernessau, with another valley congregation placed at Tragheimerweide in the early 18th century (see the previous blog post with the Delta portion of the travel Path).  All of these congregations except Przechowko were adhered to the Frisian sect so the culture (Mennonite culture, that is) of the Valley, as opposed to that of the Delta, was somewhat different.  Again, as in the Delta, Mennonites almost always co-habitated villages with local Lutherans or Catholics.  According to the 1772/3 Prussian census, the only village inhabited exclusively by Mennonites was Przechowko (Przechowko was also the only congregation/village with a Polish name).  And then, the earliest evidence we have for Mennonite settlement in Masovia is in 1785 when Przechowko congregants settled at Sady.

Link to the map: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1OCzRo5OpT9n8fFhhQ7-Z1nhoHqyOWB0&usp=sharing

11. Montau Church, Mątawy (Montau).  This church represents a later time period for this congregation; this building constructed in the 19th century even though the congregation can trace its history back into the last decades of the 16th century.

12. Montau-Klein/Gross Sanskau-Gross/Klein Lubin-Dragass villages (Mątawy-Wielkie Zajączkowo-Wielki Lubień-Dragacz); Vistula River Dike: 53°29'51.8"N 18°44'15.5"E; Vistula River access point: 53°29'34.2"N 18°44'26.7"E.  The way these villages were laid out deserves explanation and these Montau congregation villages illustrate the point well.  Many Mennonite will be familiar with the way Molotschna villages were organized in New Russia.  Johann Cornies made sure all the houses were lined up exactly and spaced evenly.  There's a joke saying that if you'd open all the doors to all the houses in those villages you'd be able to look through the doorways of each house from one end of the village to the other.  However, the villages in Polish Prussia were different.  Houses were spaced irregularly and they were not aligned with one another.  They were also oftentimes placed upon their fields rather than having fields stretch out behind or beside the village.  The villages were themselves just a group of farms until a convenient border naturally appeared (perhaps a waterway of some sort) and then the next village began, so villages butted right up against one another.  This stretch of villages, driving along the 207 from Montau south to Dragass illustrates this layout.  

And there are numerous points along the Vistula where you can get a good look at a dike.  Near Dragass, at about 53°29'51.8"N 18°44'15.5"E, is one of these points.  If you've read this far, then you're a Low German Mennonite and you need to understand about these dikes.  Your ancestors built and maintained them.  They were absolutely crucial to survival in these flood-prone areas so take a good look.  If you're particularly bold, there are spots like this one where you can drive up the path to the top and you can continue driving along the top of the dike.  And if you take a look at your GPS, you might notice areas where the level of the ground is actually lower than the level of the river on the opposite side of the dike.

And again, if you've read this far, this Vistula should be very important to you.  Take the crossing to the other side of the dike at 53°29'51.8"N 18°44'15.5"E and follow the road down to the edge of the river.  Sit there and take it it.  Walk to the edge of the water and at least dip your hands in it.  Seriously, take off your shoes and wade it just a little.  One thing, as "Russian" Mennonites, that we may have forgotten is how important water was to our ancestors.  As Low German Mennonites, water and water management is in our blood.  In the Russian colonies, Mennonite life became all about wheat and sheep.  But before that, during the Polish era, Mennonite life was all about water management (building dikes and canals and mills).  Mennonites were all about controlling water and, indeed, that's why they were imported into these Vistula lowlands in the first place.  Take a good look at the dike here, and the Vistula River as well.

Finally, at this stop at the Vistula, look up and you'll see the granaries and fortress of Graudentz across the river.  This is the view your ancestors had as they worked their fields or tended their gardens.  

13. Przechówko Cemetery, Przechówko; 53°23'26.2"N 18°23'17.7"E.  I could write pages and pages about this cemetery.  Mennonites left Przechowko by the 1830s although, inevitably, some intermarried with local Lutheran Hollenders who moved in to replace these Mennonites.  The Lutherans lived in the Mennonite housebarns and likely built their own structures.  The last residents of Przechowko moved out in the early 2000s and the village grounds became a dumping ground, existing in the shadow of the cardboard factory across Bydgoska Street to the north.  The last internments in the cemetery were probably in the 1990s.  As such, the cemetery became forgotten... and thus was preserved.  We started a restoration project in the early 2020s and wrapped up in summer 2025.  More grave markers were discovered than anticipated (more than 130 have been located) and the cemetery became perhaps the largest collection of in situ 18th century grave markers in the whole country.  It's an astounding place.  A large memorial stone was carved by a member of the family which last lived in the village.  If you tromp around through the trees, you can find the foundation of the last housebarn.  The custodian of the cemetery will now be the City of Swiecie but the fine folks at the Lower Vistula Parks Complex will also keep close watch over it.

Standing in the cemetery is a profoundly moving experience.  If you have ancestors buried here, take some quiet time in this place and appreciate the history - the oldest authentic Mennonite cemetery in Poland - for that matter, in the world (but Lutherans and an occasional Catholic are also buried here).  I'll put right here special thanks to Michal and Mark for all their help with this cemetery.  Michal showed it to me and Mark opened up Poland to me.  I've spent a good deal of time working with this cemetery and, now that the project is "complete", I'll admit that I also spent a good deal of money to achieve this project.  

I'll honestly say that achieving this project has been a highlight of my life.  Mennonites oftentimes overlook cemeteries sometimes because perhaps a fancy headstone or some sort of memorial candles or flowers are seen as too prideful.  I'll humbly disagree.  "I would give my bread to the hungry and clothing to the naked. If I saw one of my people who had died and been thrown behind the wall of Nineveh, I used to bury him." (Tobit 1, 16-22).  I don't want to get into theology too much but burying the dead, ensuring the deceased are laid to rest respectfully, is one of the corporal acts of mercy.  And this has been practice for most Jews and Christians since the beginning of time.  I hope that, with the work I've done or caused to be done, in the Przechowko cemetery, that I've accomplished something good.  That was certainly my intent.  Enjoy Przechowko cemetery because it's a sacred spot and there's no other place like it on earth, nor will there ever be.

14. 1791 Mennonite Cottage, Chrystkowo (Christfelde); 53°19'15.8"N 18°19'01.2"E

15. Schönsee Cemetery, Sosnówka (Schönsee); 53°24'45.4"N 18°37'12.5"E

16. The Nickelstein, Szynych (Schöneich); 53°25'20.3"N 18°39'50.6"E

17. Hollender Ethnographic Museum, Wielka Nieszawka (Obernessau), outside of Toruń; https://etnomuzeum.pl/o-muzeum/dla-zwiedzajacych/lets-visit-the-ethnographic-museum/

18. Vistula Settlement Open-Air Museum, Wiączemin Polski; https://muzeumplock.eu/pd-21-maja-wstep-do-skansenu-jest-platny/

19. Deutsch Wymyśle Church, Nowe Wymyśle (Deutsch Wymyśle); 52°25'36.3"N 19°50'20.2"E

20. Warsaw Market; 52°14'59.7"N 21°00'42.9"E  Michalin founded 1791

Low German Mennonite Heritage Path: Vistula River Delta

Rod Ratzlaff's Low German Mennonite Heritage Path: Vistula River Delta

1. Gdańsk

2. Danziger Kopf, Żuławki (Fürstenwerder); 54°17'07.0"N 18°58'20.2"E

3. Palschau (Palczewo) windmill; 54°10′06.2″N 18°52′21.9″E

4. Orłowo (Orloff) Arcaded Werder house; 54°12'05.4"N 19°03'40.4"E

5. Zulawy Historical Musuem, Nowy Dwór Gdański (Tiegenhof); https://zph.org.pl/

6. Mały Holender restaurant, Żelichowo (Petershagen); https://www.malyholender.pl/

7. Rosenort Cemetery, Różewo (Rosenort); 54°11'33.0"N 19°10'38.4"E

8. Elbląg 

9. Heubuden Cemetery, Stogi (Heubuden); 54°04'15.1"N 18°58'49.6"E

10. Tragheimerweide Cemetery, Barcice (Tragheimerweide); 53°52'01.3"N 18°56'37.8"E

The Vistula River delta area, basically a triangle from Gdansk to Eblag to Malbork (or the conjunction of the Nogat and Vistula Rivers), is basically the area our ancestors would have called the Gross Werder.  This was the area of highest Mennonite concentration back in the day and you'll still find many remnants of Mennonite culture today.  Back then, the Flemish sect dominated the delta area with congregations located at Danzig, Baerwalde, Tiegenhagen, Ladekop, Rosenort, Elbing, and Heubuden.  The only Frisian congregations were at Orlofferfelde, Danzig, and Elbing (both Danzig and Elbing had both Flemish and Frisian congregations).  These people spoke Low German on a daily basis and began settling in the area by the mid 16th century.  By the late 18th century, they inhabited a great many villages across the Gross Werder - far too many to list here - although none of these villages was inhabited exclusively by Mennonites.  The following sites include a good variety of churches, cemeteries, and houses, representing both the Flemish and Frisian Mennonite sects.

Link to the map: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1YvAQp2FgHGWeymzL58kv3GNBJMQaaJw&usp=sharing

1. Gdańsk.  Any good Mennonite tour of Poland really needs to include significant time in Gdansk.  Low German Mennonites, this is your home city; more so than Amsterdam or Halbstadt or any other place you can think of.  This is the first place Mennonites came to in Poland and it would continue to be the port of entry for additional Mennonites arriving from the Dutch lowlands.  Maybe you won't find much now that's overtly Mennonite but this is where your ancestors walked and arrived and did their initial business.  Spend some time walking along the canal waterfront.  Go out to the Wiebe Bastion and look at examples of Van der Blocke art (were Wiebe and Van den Blocke really Mennonites?).  Too back Zum Lachs is now closed but certainly sit down at a restaurant and sample a shot of Goldwasser.  Walk through the Long Market and gaze at the Artus Court building where Georg Hansen was interrogated in 1678.  Walk out to the former general locations of the Flemish and Frisian meeting houses (although you won't find any Mennonite traces today but the Flemish site was just outside the Petershagen Gate while the Frisian was just outside the Neugarten Gate).  Climb to the top of the tower of St. Mary's Church where you can get a bird's eye view of all these places.  And most of all, visit the unified Mennonite church building, just west of the walls of the old city, which is undergoing restoration even as I'm writing this.

Just as much as any of these activities, simply sit in a cafe or on a bench along the waterfront and soak in the atmosphere.  Sit quietly and pay attention.  This is exactly the place where your ancestors walked centuries ago.

Wiebe Bastion: https://www.gdansk.pl/wiadomosci/Bastion-Wiebego-i-Baszta-Nowa-czyli-spacer-po-terenie-dawnych-fortyfikacji-Gdanska,a,117016

Van den Blocke: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willem_van_den_Blocke

Goldwasser: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goldwasser

Artus Court: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artus_Court

Gdansk Mennonite Church: https://gameo.org/index.php?title=Danzig_Mennonite_Church_(Gdansk,_Poland)

2. Danziger Kopf, Żuławki (Fürstenwerder).  By the later end of the Mennonite era in Poland (maybe the 18th century), Mennonites were building these great, wonderful houses with large arcade additions on the front of the original Dutch-style longhouses (housebarns).  As you travel around the northern Vistula area, you'll stumble upon many of these, restored and unrestored, and these are a wonderful remnant of our ancestors' culture.  Moving forward here I'll call them Arcade Werder House (or similar).  An amazing example of a restored Arcade Werder house is the Danziger Kopf, owned and restored by my friend Mariusz Wisniewski.  Stop and see it if you can, it's well worth it.

3. Palschau (Palczewo) Windmill.  I haven't actually visited the Palschau windmill myself, and I honestly don't know if it's still standing.  But this is (or was) one of the last examples of a Dutch windmill in the Vistula area.  Our ancestor built windmills in the Dutch style in order to pump water and to mill grain.  Dutch style windmills (according to a Dutch friend) rotate only at the cap at the top.  A Polish style windmill may rotate the entire structure from a pivot point near the base.  Thus, perhaps the Dutch mill is more stable and less apt to collapse to one side or the other.  In centuries past, mills like this one were common all along the river delta and valley and are a really striking remnant of Dutch and Low German Mennonite culture.  

4. Orłowo (Orloff) Arcaded Werder House.  This is another example of an Arcaded Werder House.  You'll probably see many such houses as you drive around but just make real sure you stop and look at a couple of them.  They're all just a little different so you need to appreciate them.  This particular one is located in the village of Orloff and was occupied by a Loewen of some sort.  Orloff became the namesake for villages in the Molotschna and Barnaul colonies, as well as Canada (I think).

5. Zulawy Historical Musuem, Nowy Dwór Gdański (Tiegenhof); https://zph.org.pl/.  This is a great museum located in Tiegenhof, which was an important center for our Mennonite ancestors.  Talk to my friend Lukasz Kepski about getting a personal tour if possible.  While the museum isn't purposely geared toward Mennonites, by default it has a lot of Mennonite stuff in it since there were so many of them in the area.

6. Mały Holender restaurant, Żelichowo (Petershagen); https://www.malyholender.pl/.  It's an amazing experience to visit this restaurant, located in a restored Werder house brought onto this site from someplace east of Elbing (I think).  You can eat a great meal, and then wander around the building a little, as well as outside too.  The last time I was there, they were constructing a mill outside and you can even wander around a little more and find remnants of the old Petershagen cemetery.  The proprietor has revived the popular Mennonite liquor, Machandel, brought by the Mennonite Stobbe family from Holland in the 18th century (yes, Mennonites produced a great deal of quality alcohol in Poland back in the day).  The Maly Holender is absolutely the best place to sample Machandel, and here you can do it properly, with a dried plum skewered onto a toothpick.  Elsewhere in Nowy Dwor Gdanski you can still find the Stobbe family granary.

7. Rosenort Cemetery, Różewo (Rosenort).  You'll find remnants of many Mennonite cemeteries throughout the Werder.  This one is notable because a stone has been erected to memorialize Cornelius Warkentin who was elder here and instrumental in moving Mennonites to Imperial Russia beginning in the late 18th century.  I remember on my first trip to Poland, standing in this cemetery and hearing a hymn sung in German to dedicate this memorial stone.  Hearing the hymn sung in German, in that setting, literally had me crying like a baby and I'm glad I had sunglasses on because it was even a little bit embarrassing.  When you stand in these cemeteries, soak it all in and understand how profound the moment is.

8. Elbląg.  That's Elbing to us Mennonites.  Elbing was a rival to Danzig in importance for our ancestors since the guilds and administration back in the 17th and 18th centuries were more friendly to Mennonites here.  And it's here in Elbing where you'll find what is perhaps the single most stunning example of Mennonite culture still standing.  Back in the day, a Mennonite church couldn't have a steeple or look like a church in any way.  Lutheran guild officials or Catholic administrators or landowners accepted the Mennonites because they were an economic boon.  However, these same officials absolutely did not want Mennonites to proselytize because they didn't want additions to the non-combatant population.  Thus, limitations were placed on their churches and some of the structures became known as "hidden churches".  Walking along on the street, you'd never even know the building behind the door is a church.  You can still find some of these in The Netherlands, but the only one you'll find in Poland is here in Elbing.  And, interestingly enough, this building was one of the few to survive WWII bombings (seriously, you can find pictures from the '40s and this church is still standing while everything else is just destroyed).  The Elbing hidden church is an absolute gem and a must-see for any Mennonite visiting Poland.  A later, 19th century Mennonite church is also located just west of the old town.

Elbing Church: https://aroundus.com/p/12355496-12-garbary-street-in-elblag

9. Heubuden Cemetery, Stogi (Heubuden).  The congregation at Stogi was one of the largest in the Gross Werder and the cemetery is one of the best preserved.  There are more grave markers here than any other Mennonite cemetery in the delta, most of which represent internments from the 19th century.  

10. Tragheimerweide Cemetery, Barcice (Tragheimerweide).  This entry would fit better on the next list; Tragheimerweide is usually considered a Valley congregation, but it rounds out a tidy 10 sites for this half of the list.  Tragheimerweide was the latest of the original Mennonite congregations to be established.  Congregants from nearby Montau left the area in 1713 for the Memel River lowlands (then in the Kingdom of Prussia) but returned to the Vistula (Royal Prussia, semi-autonomous province of the Polish Crown) in 1724, establishing this congregation south of Sztum (Stuhm).  This cemetery actually served the residents from Zwanzigerweide while another nearby cemetery served those residents from Schweingrube.  In my opinion, this is the more worthwhile of the two to visit.  Similar to the Heubuden cemetery above, this cemetery largely includes19th century memorial stones. 

Mennonite Sites in Poland

We can say, generally, that the Low German Mennonite movement can trace its origins to the Dutch Lowlands during the first quarter of the 16th century.  Already by mid-century, some Mennonites were moving into the areas in and around Gdańsk (Danzig) and Elbląg (Elbing).  And shortly after mid-century point, some Mennonites were already moving into the Vistula River valley lowlands   By the early 17th century, they had spread all along the approximately lower 100 miles of the Vistula River valley from the Baltic Sea coast, all the way south to Toruń.  And in the very last decades of the 18th century, they began moving into lands held by the Empire of Russia.  

Very often, these people are called Russian Mennonites.  I don't particularly like this term.  It's not exactly a misnomer in my mind, but I don't feel it's the best term we can use.  Alternately, these people are called Dutch Mennonites, Vistula Mennonites, Prussian Mennonites, or Low German Mennonites.  These people lived in "Poland" for much longer than they lived in "Russia".  Many of them can trace ancestors living in Poland for more than 200 years while the time in Russia may have only amounted to c75 years.  In my opinion, Low German Mennonite is the best term to use.

Of course, the term "Poland" is just a little problematic too.  Polish geography and history are really complicated and trying to quickly describe this area is really difficult.  Poland proper actually includes lands farther south - 100 miles south of the Baltic coast.  Greater Poland is the area surrounding Poznań and Lesser Poland is the area surrounding Kraków.  These Vistula River areas where most of the Mennonites lived have actually been called Pomerania or Pomerelia or Kashubia or Kuyavia or Chełmno Land or Warmia (and just a little farther south, Masovia too).  Prussia, traditionally, was the delta area, particularly to the east of the river.  But these areas came to be dominated by the Poles since at least the 13th century.  (No, I'm not even going to get into Teutonic Knight domination between the early 14th century until 1466)  Certainly by the time the Mennonites came to live there, the Vistula delta and valley were controlled by the Poles and I feel the best way to describe this region, during the Mennonite Era, is Polish Prussia.  Today, the area is controlled by Poland.  And now that we have all these messy definitions out of the way, I'll simply use the terms "Poland" and "Low German Mennonite".

Obviously, Poland is a very important place for Low German Mennonites.  Poland is where their culture grew and flourished and today, in order to understand your Low German Mennonite ancestors, it's crucial that you learn about the areas where they lived in Poland.  The very best way to do that is to travel to Poland.

I've been asked many times to compile a list of Mennonites sites in Poland.  I've resisted doing that until now in the fear that I'll leave an important site out.  However, I will put together the following list because I cannot find a similar list anywhere else that I would be happy with.  For instance, you can find biking trails or "Mennonite Trails" online (see: https://polskanarowerze.pl/szlak-mennonitow/).  You can also find things like this (https://izi.travel/en/d2d7-mennonites-poland-common-heritage/en) or this (https://greenvelo.pl/en/detal/1403-greenvelo-mennonites-trail), but none of these really suit my needs or give me enough background information.  The IZI tour is put together by three friends of mine - certainly in my opinion, three of the best Mennonite historians in Poland today.  It's an absolutely fantastic tour but it's just a little bit outdated now.  It lacks a couple sites - one stunningly important one - that is very important to me and those three historians will immediately know what I'm talking about.  And if you're new to traveling in Europe, or don't feel comfortable driving a car in a foreign country, the annual tour given by the Mennonite Polish Studies Association is a wonderful and enlightening experience (https://mla.bethelks.edu/information/mpsa.php) and would absolutely be worth your money.

The following list will include sites from the Baltic coast all the way to Warsaw.  This is not something a person would probably tour with a bicycle.  But certainly a visitor from North America could easily tour these sites with a car.  But word of advice: before you travel to Poland to visit your ancestral sites, make sure you know where your ancestors lived.  If you consider yourself a "Russian Mennonite", your ancestors did indeed live in these Vistula areas.  Don't just visit sites I list here.  Do the research and get yourself to the proper places.

Here's my list.  This is not a ranking of "best" or "most important" or anything like that, it's just simply a list.  We'll call it the Rod Ratzlaff Low German Mennonite Heritage Path and divide it into two sections; Delta and Valley/Masovia (although Tragheimerweide will be included with the Delta to make it into a tidy two section list).  First is just a general list and then with the next two blog entries I'll repeat the list along with a lot more details.

Delta:

1. Gdańsk

2. Danziger Kopf, Żuławki (Fürstenwerder); 54°17'07.0"N 18°58'20.2"E

3. Palschau (Palczewo) windmill; 54°10′06.2″N 18°52′21.9″E

4. Orłowo (Orloff) Arcaded Werder house; 54°12'05.4"N 19°03'40.4"E

5. Zulawy Historical Musuem, Nowy Dwór Gdański (Tiegenhof); https://zph.org.pl/

6. Mały Holender restaurant, Żelichowo (Petershagen); https://www.malyholender.pl/

7. Rosenort Cemetery, Różewo (Rosenort); 54°11'33.0"N 19°10'38.4"E

8. Elbląg 

9. Heubuden Cemetery, Stogi (Heubuden); 54°04'15.1"N 18°58'49.6"E

10. Tragheimerweide Cemetery, Barcice (Tragheimerweide); 53°52'01.3"N 18°56'37.8"E

Valley/Masovia

11. Montau Church, Mątawy (Montau); 53°34'32.0"N 18°44'58.2"E

12. Montau-Klein/Gross Sanskau-Gross/Klein Lubin-Dragass villages (Mątawy-Wielkie Zajączkowo-Wielki Lubień-Dragacz); Vistula River Dike: 53°29'51.8"N 18°44'15.5"E; Vistula River access point: 53°29'34.2"N 18°44'26.7"E

13. Przechówko Cemetery, Przechówko; 53°23'26.2"N 18°23'17.7"E

14. 1791 Mennonite Cottage, Chrystkowo (Christfelde); 53°19'15.8"N 18°19'01.2"E

15. Schönsee Cemetery, Sosnówka (Schönsee); 53°24'45.4"N 18°37'12.5"E

16. The Nickelstein, Szynych (Schöneich); 53°25'20.3"N 18°39'50.6"E

17. Hollender Ethnographic Museum, Wielka Nieszawka (Obernessau), outside of Toruń; https://etnomuzeum.pl/o-muzeum/dla-zwiedzajacych/lets-visit-the-ethnographic-museum/

18. Vistula Settlement Open-Air Museum, Wiączemin Polski; https://muzeumplock.eu/pd-21-maja-wstep-do-skansenu-jest-platny/

19. Deutsch Wymyśle Church, Nowe Wymyśle (Deutsch Wymyśle); 52°25'36.3"N 19°50'20.2"E

20. Warsaw Market; 52°14'59.7"N 21°00'42.9"E